The dilemma of Constant Force in Watchmaking - Monochrome Watches
Constant force is a holy grail of watchmaking and chronometry. The varying driving force delivered to the regulating organ of watches affects their rate, because balance wheels are not perfectly isochronous - isochronous means that the period of oscillation is independent of the amplitude of oscillation. Modern barrels and the Swiss lever escapement offer satisfactory regularity. Still, in their ongoing search for precision, watchmakers are showing renewed interest in taming power even further. Here is our technical guide to the complex concept of constant force.The barrel is the device that stores energy in a watch movement. It contains the mainspring coiled around the barrel arbor, which is put under tension to power the movement. The force delivered by the barrel is irregular. Strong torque is provided when it is fully wound, then it slowly wanes throughout the power reserve duration. This affects the rate of watches because balance wheels are not perfectly isochronous. The period o

Pre-HYT H2 Tradition - the Hydro Mechanical Horologist goes (a bit) retro (specs & price) - Monochrome Watches
After several reviews of their watches, you should know what HYT is and that the timepieces they produce are highly technical, bold and modern. Whatever we talk about the H1, the H2, the H3 or the H4, they are all very far from being called vintage-oriented, traditional or retro. Recently, we’ve seen evolutions of several editions from the?Hydro Mechanical Horologists (that’s how the folks at HYT like to call them), like the aviator-style H2 or the implementation of a lighting system (mechanically-driven) in the H4. For their first participation at the SIHH (into the “Carre des Horologers“, with 8 other independent brands), HYT makes a U-Turn, with a more traditional vision of the H2… and some tweaks on the movements and display. Let’s have a look at the?HYT H2 Tradition.Take a look at the HYT H2, the second watch created by the brand, with the typical V-shaped bellows and the entirely skeletonized movement, visible from the front. I dare anyone to c

First Look: The Anoma A1 Slate, The Second Edition of the Oddly-Shaped Watch
About a year ago, a new micro-brand launched on the scene and caused quite some noise due to its oddly shaped, slightly overdesigned but rather appealing triangular watch, the Anoma A1 Watch. The project of a young French-British watch enthusiast, Matteo Violet Vianello, the watch made a sensation with a sculptural case playing on the trend for shaped watches – Cartier Crash or Pebble, to name a few – and the initial limited run of blue watches sold out fast. The brand is back with the second chapter in its adventure, the Anoma A1 Slate – but there’s a bit more than just a new dial colour here.Anoma’s inaugural model, the blue A1 watchViolet Vianello’s passion for watches began in childhood and led him to work at Sotheby's and later at respected indie watch retailer A Collected Man. Last year, he started his own venture, Anoma, which is short for anomaly and does reflect the unconventional shape of his first model. The A1 watch draws inspiration from

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Salmon Review
With most people's attention focused on the renaissance of the Gold Historiques 222 and even the skeletonised version of the Overseas during Watches and Wonders 2022, the presentation of Vacheron Constantin's salmon dial chrono QP was – surprisingly – bypassed by many. Fair enough, Vacheron's Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with an in-house movement has been around since 2016, so it was not a novelty. However, what was new was the presentation of this platinum version with a beautiful salmon dial, perpetuating the refined yet demure existence of a model that underscores Vacheron Constantin's status as one of the top proponents of Swiss watchmaking.Comparisons to Patek Philippe's 5270 perpetual calendar and chronograph are inevitable, especially with this latest platinum case/salmon dial combo, and welcome. Interestingly, both Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin had relied on the prestigious Lemania calibre as the chronograph base for their perpetual calenda

Interview - Jean-Marie Schaller of Independent Watchmaker Louis Moinet
Although Louis Moinet was a prominent watchmaker between the 18th and 19th centuries, Les Ateliers Louis Moinet was only created 20 years ago. As Watches & Wonders 2021 just ended, we paid a visit to Jean-Marie Schaller, the brand’s CEO, to understand how he embarked on resurrecting Louis Moinet.Xavier Markl, MONOCHROME – How did you get into watches?Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO of Louis Moinet?– Well, I grew up in the Jura mountains in the small city of Delemont. As a boy, I felt a lot of passion from the people working in the watch industry. There was a brand known as Jura Watch; there were watchmakers, case makers, dial makers, etc. These people gave me the sense of the importance of having a mission. I felt they were working not just to make a living - of course, we all have to – but they were all pursuing a passion. Soon, I realised that watches were more than just a simple product. Watches are the expression of know-how, tradition and soul from the Jura Mo