Bearing the code name Commando', in 1967 Tudor embarked upon an ambitious project for the US Navy to replace the standard-issue Oyster Prince Submariner 7928 reference. Although it never got beyond the prototype stage – as Ref. 7016 was eventually adopted to replace the 7928 – archival information held by the brand has allowed Tudor to ..................
2019-03-20 More
The Oris Aquis is the cornerstone of the brand; a robust, no-nonsense, well-executed and well-positioned diver’s watch that perfectly sums up the brand’s philosophy. Available in multiple versions, with various complications (date, day-date, small seconds, chronograph, pointer-date or regulator), surprisingly this watch has never been e..................
2019-03-20 More
The name Autavia first appeared during the 1930s, on dashboard instruments made by Heuer. The name was born from the contraction of AUTomobile and AVIAtion. It would later be associated with racing chronographs and iconic watches made during the 1960s and 1970s. For Baselworld 2019, TAG Heuer is launching a new Autavia. Departing from tradition, th..................
2019-03-20 More
If you analyze the function of an object, its form often becomes obvious, was the credo of Professor Ferdinand Alexander Porsche (founder of Porsche Design). “Form follows function” is something we often hear in the watch world but with Porsche Design, it is a matter of fact. Apparently simple yet perfectly functional, this has become e..................
2019-03-20 More
More than three centuries after the invention of the sprung balance (by Hooke/Huygens), the oscillator is back in the limelight. Exploring new frontier and technological breakthroughs in mechanical watchmaking, the oscillator is considered the crowning glory for the most inventive and skillful watchmakers. Just a few days after the presentation of ..................
2019-03-20 More
In 2017, Patek Philippe (sort of) celebrated the 20th anniversary of its iconic yet entry-level sports watch, the Aquanaut, by presenting an oversized “Jumbo” model in white gold with a blue dial, the reference 5168G-001. With its case size increased by 2mm and its precious metal case, it was a bit of a controversial piece. Well, there&..................
2019-03-19 More
The classic Patek Philippe hand-wound chronograph immediately comes to mind to any collector thinking about high-end chronographs. The 5070 (based on a Lemania ebauche for Patek Philippe) was presented in 1998. It was replaced by the reference 5170 and its in-house, CH 29-535 hand-wound movement (that was launched the year before in a ladies’..................
2019-03-19 More
This is it, the list of new watches at Patek Philippe has been revealed for the 2019 Collection. While we’ve already seen the introduction of a new regulator in rose gold, there are several interesting watches, including this brand new Calatrava – design-wise, material-wise and complication-wise. Meet the Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly..................
2019-03-19 More
Although bronze cases have become almost mainstream these days, there is one brand they will always be most associated with: Panerai. It seems fitting then that this year, as the Florentine brand establishes the Submersible as its own stand-alone collection, we see the introduction of a new Panerai Submersible Bronzo, under the reference PAM00968. ..................
2019-03-19 More
While the Calatrava collection mostly comprises simple, 3-hand watches (automatic or not, with or without date), it barely features complications… Except that one watch that is so unique in the collection, first because of its display and unique combination of complications, but also because of its movement itself (at least, back when it was ..................
2019-03-18 More
If you’re thinking of an elegant, discreet watch, with a certain old-school dandy feel, the Master collection by Jaeger-LeCoultre has plenty of candidates.? We’ve seen multiple models in the past – QP, Moon, or even the cool Sector Dial editions – and they all share that understated, clean, thin, non-showy elegance that make..................
2019-03-18 More
Chopard has been the partner and official timekeeper of the popular Mille Miglia open-road endurance race for over 30 years now. Throughout that time, it has become something of a tradition for the brand to release a new model for the race each year. This year is no exception, and the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition makes its unofficial debu..................
2019-03-14 More
Countdown mode for Baselworld 2019 has commenced and Chopard presents its first flying tourbillon combined with an automatic movement on board the elegant rose gold L.U.C. Flying T Twin. The ultra-thin case is made from Fairmined gold and houses an even thinner automatic movement based on Chopard's very first manufacture movement. Decorated with a ..................
2019-03-14 More
For the first time in its history, Panerai, the Italian brand well-known for its iconic shaped diver’s watches, is introducing two new models with a silver-coloured dial. The new Panerai Luminor Marina watches, which are always the ones with a small seconds subdial, will be available in 42mm and 44mm. To match the silver-coloured dial, both c..................
2019-03-14 More
Since its first wristwatch was created in 1904, Cartier has carved a name for itself as a daring and innovative brand that doesn't shy away from shapes. Decade after decade, the brand unveiled incredible and unusual shaped watches, from the Tank to the Crash and even the Baignoire. Now, Cartier takes one of its premier signature looks – the B..................
2019-03-13 More
One of the big surprises of the 2018 edition of the SIHH came from Baume & Mercier with its new Baumatic collection. In case you need to refresh your memory, the Baumatics were equipped with a new calibre – called BM12-1975A – made by ValFleurier, a factory that also belongs to the Richemont Group. We already reviewed the non-COSC v..................
2019-03-13 More
It will be hard to miss it, as this will certainly be one of the most coveted timepieces of the year – and one that many here were expecting. What remained unknown until today was the look of the Apollo 11?50th anniversary of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. We knew it had to be special. And indeed, it is special… Much, much more than what we..................
2019-03-12 More
When introduced back in 1931, the Reverso was designed with one purpose in mind: protecting its dial. It was a watch made for polo players, who needed to have the glass of their watches (at that time still mineral glass) hidden – hence the idea of a reversible case. Since then, such needs aren’t relevant anymore but the Reverso still pl..................
2019-03-11 More
Chances are, you've never heard the name Steffen Cornehl before. That's because he is an independent watchmaker of the more obscure variety. He doesn't come from one of the major brands, nor is he based in Switzerland. Instead, he works out of a small studio in Stuggart, Germany, where he restores antique clocks and vintage watches, while slowly bu..................
2019-03-10 More
In the early 1970s, Audemars Piguet introduced a watch that would forever unite the worlds of luxury and sport. Now, almost 50 years later, the brand continues to find innovative and intriguing ways to reinvent the Royal Oak, ensuring it remains one of the most sought-after watch collections in the world. This year, Audemars Piguet has done it agai..................
2019-03-08 More
It's only March, but Panerai has already made it clear that 2019 is unequivocally about the dive watch. The professional grade Submersible dive watch to be specific, which this year becomes a stand-alone collection in its own right. Alongside the new models, Panerai is also offering unique experiences' related to the world of the Submersible. These..................
2019-03-07 More
Earlier this year, at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Jaeger-LeCoultre pulled out all the stops for its women's watches. The brand's much-coveted Rendez-Vous collection (released seven years ago in 2012 and created just for women) was top on the list when it came to new editions. Of particular note were the high jewellery pie..................
2019-03-06 More
Compliant mechanisms are flexible mechanisms that transfer an input force or displacement to another point through elastic body deformation. Covered in detail here, they offer huge innovation potential for mechanical watchmaking. Further proof of this revolution can be found in the latest version of the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Packed with innovative a..................
2019-03-06 More
It isn’t the first time we’ve talked about the partnership between TAG Heuer and Aston Martin.? We covered this watch, based on the Carrera Heuer 01, which was introduced to seal the collaboration between the two brands. A watch based on a car… Always cool. But today, what we have to show is even cooler, as it is the opposite. Mee..................
2019-03-05 More
The Jurgensen name holds a special place in the rarefied world of Haute Horlogerie. This horological dynasty has had a significant influence on watchmaking in Denmark and Switzerland over centuries. Today, the brand headquartered in Biel, Switzerland has focused exclusively on distinctive dress watches building upon its time-honoured legacy charact..................
2019-03-04 More
The association of Panerai with the International Circuit for Classic Sailing Yachts is a long story that has led to the creation of multiple watches, under the name Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge (PCYC). Often regarded as some of the nicest watches in the collection, just like the Luminor 1950 PCYC ref. PAM00653 we reviewed recently (my favourit..................
2019-03-04 More
Salmon dial watches truly stand apart. These are unusual, unconventional and classic at the same time. High-end watches rarely venture beyond white, silver, black or blue. But salmon dials are superbly stylish, specifically if you are confident in your ability to carry off colours. Often reserved to limited or special editions, they add a degree of..................
2019-03-03 More
Not many people know that Longines does not consider itself a manufacture but a factory, and encourages everybody to call it a factory. It is surprising, but it perfectly matches the spirit that commands the Maison these days: high-quality mass production. Despite having a vast collection of movements, Longines only uses ETA calibres (often adjuste..................
2019-03-02 More
Quartz… A word that you don’t often read on MONOCHROME. I’m not afraid to say that and freely admit that we are watch snobs. We love fine mechanics and Haute Horlogerie. However, the watch that we’re about to review has a quartz regulator, but isn’t battery powered – and that already makes things slightly differe..................
2019-03-01 More
In a radical departure from the smooth, pebble-shaped cases we associate with Laurent Ferrier, the Bridge One embraces a new geometry marked by flowing rectangular lines with rounded edges and a strong Art Deco vibe. The movement, shaped to match the case, is also new and fitted with a traditional Swiss lever escapement as opposed to the natural es..................
2019-02-28 More
The Oris Aquis Date needs no introduction anymore. It is one of those relatively affordable automatic watches that we often cover, here at MONOCHROME. Performing both at the office or at the beach, the recent facelift operated by Oris gave this watch an even more desirable look, without jeopardising its diving capacities. Usually spotted in a large..................
2019-02-28 More
In the last years we have seen two very different faces of Greubel Forsey: on the one hand, we get extraordinarily complex watches with big cases and uneven shapes that look like a boxer after an unsuccessful fight night. Its famous GMT?is a prime example of that. On the other hand, GF also produces watches with round cases and simpler dials. Still..................
2019-02-27 More
Although the launch of?Code 11.59 and the consequent deluge of reactions pretty much eclipsed other novelties of the brand during the SIHH 2019, Audemars Piguet had some treats up its sleeve, including this 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph. Still the same watch as the existing 41mm Royal Oak Chronograph but 3mm smaller, still powered by the same automati..................
2019-02-26 More
Prior to the SIHH, A. Lange & Sohne announced a new limited edition celebrating the 25th anniversary of what certainly is its most emblematic watch, the Lange 1 – which was born in 1994 and part of the inaugural “relaunch” collection. However, the brand isn’t only celebrating one model but the entire Lange 1 collection. ..................
2019-02-25 More
The Seamaster Diver 300M is one of the most beloved watches of Omega fans, and one of the best-sellers of the company. Part of this success is due to the link with James Bond, to the point that despite the long Omega Seamaster 300M Professional name, the watch is very often simply referred to as the James Bond watch. After a tasteful facelift done ..................
2019-02-23 More
Packed with historical references, bold aesthetics, spectacular mechanics and uncompromising quality, the new white gold iteration of the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds with its black dial is a watch you won't forget. A watch that honours the past but looks undeniably contemporary, the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds marries the tradition of scientifi..................
2019-02-22 More
For a company that built its name as a purveyor of precision marine chronometers, Ulysse Nardin has a long-standing and authentic link to the sea. Combine this with the brand's penchant for extravagant complications and showmanship and you get the Marine Mega Yacht, a watch that combines a flying tourbillon, a tide indicator, a moon phase indicator..................
2019-02-21 More
Functional elegance – The perpetual calendar holds a special place in the heart of watch aficionados. Its mechanical memory and ability to display the date for decades into the future, even for leap years, is a feat of horological engineering. But most of all, the perpetual calendar is a thing of beauty. And when you combine it with a brand n..................
2019-02-21 More
Following last year’s beautiful and successful “Annual Edition” of the?vintage-inspired Glashutte Original Sixties and?Sixties Panorama Date, which depicted a superb metallic green dial, the Saxon brand returns in 2019 with a new model. Again, these watches will be produced for just one year – and you can expect to have a ne..................
2019-02-21 More
Since 2007, IWC has been producing a special series of watches designed to meet the demanding needs of elite jet pilots. Established as an independent collection within the IWC Pilot's Watch family in 2012, the TOP GUN series has become renowned for its use of hi-tech materials and stealth, military-inspired styling. IWC introduced a total of four ..................
2019-02-20 More