The dilemma of Constant Force in Watchmaking - Monochrome Watches
Constant force is a holy grail of watchmaking and chronometry. The varying driving force delivered to the regulating organ of watches affects their rate, because balance wheels are not perfectly isochronous - isochronous means that the period of oscillation is independent of the amplitude of oscillation. Modern barrels and the Swiss lever escapement offer satisfactory regularity. Still, in their ongoing search for precision, watchmakers are showing renewed interest in taming power even further. Here is our technical guide to the complex concept of constant force.The barrel is the device that stores energy in a watch movement. It contains the mainspring coiled around the barrel arbor, which is put under tension to power the movement. The force delivered by the barrel is irregular. Strong torque is provided when it is fully wound, then it slowly wanes throughout the power reserve duration. This affects the rate of watches because balance wheels are not perfectly isochronous. The period o

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Stainless Steel "Ed White" // Price
Today is Tuesday so if you were expecting a new watch…it had to be a Speedmaster. And guess what, you’re about to be served. After the reintroduction of the historical chronograph Calibre 321, the same one that was in the original 1957 Speedmaster and that was tested by NASA, and the platinum watch with this movement inside, Omega surprises us with another great novelty, again with this same movement, but in a much more desirable package. Meet the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Stainless Steel, or the “Ed White” re-edition.Omega Speedmaster 105.003 a.k.a. Ed WhiteThe new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Steel is based on the classic “straight lugs” case offered by Omega with the FOIS edition, as well as the recent CK2998 Blue or CK2998 Pulsometer. But, on the contrary to these two previous watches, there are some major differences in mechanics (obviously, as they were all powered by the classic 1861) but also in terms of design. As such, this Moo

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike in Fairmined White Gold (Crystal Clear and Eco-Friendly) - Monochrome Watches
Following the resounding success of the 2016 L.U.C Full Strike in rose gold with its revolutionary use of sapphire crystal gongs, Chopard presents the second version of its minute repeater in 18k white gold – ‘Fairmined’, of course. Monochromatic with subtle silvery grey details on the partially openworked dial, the white gold model is even less conspicuous than its predecessor but packed with all the marvellous technical goodies and distinctive chimes that won this watch the coveted Aiguille d'Or prize at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve Awards (GPHG) of 2017.Mastering SoundTo coincide with 20th anniversary of its high-end L.U.C watch manufacture in 2016, Chopard pulled out all the stops and unveiled its first minute repeater, the L.U.C Full Strike. After six years of R&D and three patents, Chopard was ready to wow the world with its impressive and thoroughly innovative interpretation of the minute repeater. With its unique triggering of the chimes via the c

Hands-On: The new Citizen Mechanical Day/Date NY4058 is a Perfect Example of a Gateway Mechanical Watch
When you read magazines like MONOCHROME, stepping into the (absolutely fascinating) world of mechanical watchmaking can be frightening. Not only can these watches be hard to understand, filled with complications and complex mechanical devices, but the prices at which most luxury watches are offered generate a “glass ceiling” effect that’s hard to break. There is what we call accessible luxury, of course, but even here, prices are still beyond the reach of many. Enter the so-called “gateway watches,” mechanical timepieces that are genuinely affordable, the kind of watches that can get you hooked and locked in this rabbit hole that’s watch collecting.?There are so many options to consider when it comes to your first mechanical watch, to the watch you buy for yourself or your kids as the first step into the world of mechanical watchmaking. Obviously, what you can put on the table to acquire this first watch is highly personal and will depend on each ind

Value Proposition Mercer Airfoil Automatic Pilot Watch (Specs & Price)
Mercer Watch Co. is an American microbrand that I've been following for a couple of years now. I recently reviewed its?Lexington Chronograph and was impressed by the aesthetics and overall quality for the price. Although it has a Seagull ST1901 hand-wound movement from China, Mercer assembles, regulates and tests each one in-house and this particular movement has a solid reputation for reliability. A different concept, the Airfoil is its flagship but this time with a Swiss Sellita automatic running the show. It's a simple pilot watch that recently gained a vanilla dial alongside the original matte black face, and is an attractive, understated piece for just about any occasion. I usually consider something like the Hamilton Khaki Pilot Auto Day Date to be more of a pilot's watch, but the Airfoil's simplicity is also what I find appealing. Does it hold up in a very crowded and competitive field? Let's take a closer look at Mercer's bestseller with its new vanilla dial for 2018.BACKGROUND