In-Depth: The A. Lange & Sohne Datograph, the First 25 Years
In the realm of chronographs in 1999, it was customary across the watchmaking industry to rely upon outsourced calibres. , for example, was still using a modified Zenith El Primero to power the Daytona, and Patek Philippe had yet to introduce its in-house chronograph (2005); Patek’s 1998 chronograph 5070 was built upon the Lemania 2310 ebauche. Calibres like the Valjoux 7750, which had been introduced in the early 1970s, were adopted by many brands, and few new chronograph movements emerged after that. The few exceptions included the Frederic Piguet calibres 1180 and 1185, introduced in 1987 and 1988, respectively, designed by Edmond Capt, the same individual behind the creation of the 7750. Since 1996, Jaeger-LeCoultre utilised the calibre 829 in a limited edition with the Reverso Chronograph Retrograde, yet at the time, to make a chronograph, brands relied on outsourced movements and ebauches.Watchmaking companies began investing in calibre development in the 1990s, aiming to

Laurent Ferrier Galet Minute Repeater (Hands-On) - Monochrome Watches
Laurent Ferrier watches are often defined as “simple”.? Well, at least when it comes to the design. But when a 3-hand watch is fitted with a tourbillon double hairspring or a natural escapement (direct double impulse) and a micro-rotor, you can’t be labelled “simple” anymore. With its latest creation, the most complex in the collection so far, Laurent Ferrier doesn’t break its habits. Meet the impressively clean Laurent Ferrier Galet Minute Repeater.Unveiled in the frame of Baselworld 2018, Laurent Ferrier expands its collection with the most complex piece so far. After a superb tourbillon, complex 3-hand watches (Galet, Galet Square and Montre Ecole), a traveller’s watch and an annual calendar, the small Geneva-based atelier adds what is certainly the ultimate complication for a classic-style brand, a minute repeater. The expansion of the collection is rather impressive these days, with various new movements and multiple new designs. And while

Hands-on - Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black (Specs & Price)
Chopard introduced the L.U.C Time Traveler One in 2016. Marking the first world timer to join the L.U.C collection, the Time Traveler One shows the time in all 24 time zones simultaneously and is operated by an internal 24-hour ring. The standout feature of Chopard's globetrotter's watch is the Super Compressor-style case with two crowns and an internal rotating bezel, a case largely associated with instrument dive watches. For 2021, Chopard revisits its popular Time Traveler One in monochrome with a matte ceramised titanium case in a limited run of 250 pieces.World Time at a glanceWith current travel restrictions in place, global travel might be a distant dream for most of us. However, world time watches are also useful for conducting business around the world and making sure you don't wake up your business partner in Taipei in the wee hours of the morning. Ad - Scroll to continue with article

Introducing: New Red Gold Versions of the Updated IWC Portugieser 40 and 42 Automatic
2024 was all about the Portugieser at IWC, the brand’s most classic and elegant collection. Of course, the star of the show was the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, a secular calendar watch that made it to our list of the best watches of the year. There were many more updated versions of this emblematic watch launched at W&W 2024, including superb colours for the chronograph, updated QPs and revised editions of the Portugieser 40 and 42 Automatic. In both cases, a classic combination was missing: a gold case and silver dial, which is the maximum expression of timelessness. Problem solved as IWC presents red gold versions of the 40mm IW3584 and the 42mm IW5017 of its icon.?The update that these models underwent in April 2024 was subtle, to say the least. We were looking at slightly retouched cases with thinner middle cases combined with box-shaped crystals – front and back – adding to the slenderness of these models. For the Portugieser 40 Automatic, a watch first lau

Collector's Series - Camron and his Speake-Marin London Chronograph
Camron shares his passion for watches (with many chronographs and Indie watches) under the pseudonym @cucalichronoguy on Instagram. He’s not the average collector and his collection is pretty… eclectic. Today we’re talking about a Speake-Marin, but not one that you’d think of immediately when hearing the Speake-Marin name. It’s a chronograph, and to be precise, it’s the Speake-Marin London Chronograph First Edition. But there’s more to the collection of Camron than just watches. He’s also the owner of one of the craziest strap collections I’ve ever seen. Dozens and dozens of custom-made, highly personal, straps to match his personality. Today, in our newest instalment of the Collector’s Series, we’ll discuss this cool Speake-Marin chronograph with a restored vintage Valjoux movement, as well as Camron’s passion (dare I say obsession) for custom-designed watch straps.?Frank Geelen, MONOCHROME – Are you a typic